Most visitors who drive up to Ribeiro Frio only walk as far as Miradouro dos Balcões and turn back. Levada do Furado is what's on the other side of that viewpoint — eleven kilometres of one of Madeira's oldest irrigation channels, cut straight through the island's ancient laurel forest to the village of Portela.
What is Levada do Furado?
Levada do Furado is Madeira's PR10 trail, a footpath that follows one of the island's oldest public levadas from Ribeiro Frio to Portela, on the north-eastern side of the island. The name comes from the short, hand-carved rock tunnels — furados — that the levada passes through where the mountainside was too solid to route around. It's one of the most complete introductions to Laurisilva, the UNESCO World Heritage laurel forest that once covered most of Madeira, with the path staying close to the water channel the entire way.
How long is the walk from Ribeiro Frio to Portela?
About 11km one way, rated moderate, and taking most hikers somewhere between four and five hours at a steady pace. The trail drops gently overall, from roughly 880m at Ribeiro Frio to about 645m at Portela, so the challenge isn't steep climbing — it's the sheer length, the narrow path, and the fact that there's no shortcut back once you're committed. Along the way the levada skirts the Ribeiro Frio valley, opens onto views of the Penha d'Águia rock formation, and crosses farmland above Faial, São Roque do Faial and Porto da Cruz before reaching the Portela viewpoint at the end.
Do you need to book PR10 in 2026?
Yes. Since 2026, every numbered PR trail in Madeira requires a paid time-slot reservation through the official SIMplifica portal before you set off, and Levada do Furado is no exception. The fee is €4.50 per person over the age of 12, with children 12 and under exempt, and slots need to be booked online in advance — there's no booking on arrival. Reserve a slot that gives you enough daylight to comfortably finish the full 11km, since the trail doesn't loop back to a car park at the start.
How is this different from the short walk to Balcões?
Miradouro dos Balcões, the popular short walk from Ribeiro Frio, actually sits on this same levada — it's the first twenty-or-so minutes of PR10 before most people turn around at the viewpoint. Levada do Furado is what happens if you keep going: hours more of forest, tunnels and valley views, ending in a different village entirely rather than looping back to where you started. Treat Balcões as the taster and Furado as the full trail for anyone with a full day and no need to return to the same car park.
Is the trail safe, tunnels and all?
Mostly, if you respect it. The tunnels themselves are short enough that most walkers don't need a torch, though carrying one costs nothing. The bigger thing to plan for is the exposure: several stretches run along a narrow ledge above the valley with a genuine drop to one side, protected by fencing in the more exposed spots but still not a trail for anyone uneasy with heights or careless footing. Lush vegetation can obscure the path surface after rain, so proper hiking shoes matter more here than on the flatter, better-groomed sections near Ribeiro Frio.
How do you get back from Portela?
By taxi, arranged either in advance or on the spot. There's no direct public bus service connecting Portela back to Ribeiro Frio, but local taxi drivers typically wait near the Portela viewpoint for arriving hikers, and it's worth having a driver's number saved before you set off in case none are around when you finish. Some walkers instead arrange a car at each end, or simply plan the day as one-way and factor the taxi fare into the cost of the hike.
Should you pair it with a boat trip?
Not on the same day. Levada do Furado sits deep in Madeira's mountainous interior on the north-eastern side of the island, a world away from the sheltered south coast where a private boat trip with Chifbay runs between Câmara de Lobos and Ponta do Sol. The two make an excellent contrast across a longer stay — a full day in ancient forest on foot, and a calmer afternoon on the water with cliffs, coves and a swim — but they're different sides of the island and different kinds of tired to end the day on.
Balcões shows you the postcard. Furado is the eleven kilometres that made it.
If you've already done the short walk to Balcões and wondered what was further along the levada, Furado is the answer — just plan the taxi back to Ribeiro Frio before you start, not after.