Ask anyone in Madeira what makes the island's sweets taste the way they do and the answer is the same: mel de cana, the dark sugarcane syrup that has been boiled on the island for centuries. Here's what it is, where you'll meet it, and how to taste it properly.
What is mel de cana?
Mel de cana — literally "sugarcane honey" — is a dark, thick syrup made by pressing sugarcane and boiling the juice down. It contains no bee honey; think of it as a cousin of molasses, with a deep, caramel-and-toasted sweetness and a faint bitterness at the edges. Sugarcane arrived in Madeira in the 15th century and shaped the island's early economy, and a few cane fields and mills still operate today.
Where does mel de cana show up in Madeiran food?
Its most famous role is in bolo de mel, the dense, spiced Madeira honey cake that traditionally appears at Christmas but is sold year-round. It is also drizzled over malasadas (fried dough) at village festivals, spooned over soft cheese, and used in some home recipes for poncha. Once you know the flavour, you'll spot it all over the island's dessert menus.
Is poncha made with mel de cana?
Traditionally, yes — poncha is aguardente de cana (sugarcane spirit), lemon and a sweetener, and the classic sweetener is honey or mel de cana, although many bars now use plain sugar. Ask for it "com mel de cana" if you want the old-school version. Our guide to poncha covers the variations, and the aguardente de cana guide explains the spirit behind it.
Where can you taste and see sugarcane being processed?
The best places are the island's working cane mills and distilleries, with Calheta on the south-west coast and Porto da Cruz on the north coast the best known. Opening hours and tours change, so check before you drive out. In Funchal, the Mercado dos Lavradores and the delicatessens around the old town sell bottled mel de cana, and you can taste it in nearly any café that serves bolo de mel.
How do you choose a good bottle?
Look for a short ingredient list — sugarcane juice and nothing else — and a deep brown colour with a thick, pourable texture. Smaller producers and mill shops are usually the safest bet; very cheap, brightly packaged bottles in tourist shops are more likely to be diluted or sweetened. A small bottle goes a long way, and it keeps well once sealed in a cool cupboard.
How should you eat and drink it?
Simple is best. Pour a little over fresh local cheese or plain yoghurt, stir it into a hot drink, drizzle it on pancakes, or use it in place of treacle in baking. With a glass of chilled Madeira wine, a slice of bolo de mel is one of the island's great small pleasures — our Madeira wine guide has pairing ideas.
Can you pair Madeiran flavours with a day on the water?
Absolutely — local food and drink are a natural part of a day at sea. On a private Chifbay trip from Funchal, drinks and food are aboard, and a Madeiran bite with a view of Cabo Girão or a sunset over Câmara de Lobos beats any restaurant table. The Sunset Trip departs at 18:30, and the Day Trip runs 10:00–13:00 or 14:00–17:00; the boat is yours alone, for up to five guests.
If it's dark, sticky and smells of toasted sugar, it's probably Madeira doing what it has done for 500 years.
What is the quick tasting checklist?
Try bolo de mel with a coffee, a malasada drizzled with mel de cana at a festival, and a poncha made the traditional way. Buy one small bottle from a mill or market, and you'll bring the island's flavour home with you.
Frequently asked questions
What is mel de cana?
Mel de cana (sugarcane honey) is a dark, thick syrup made by boiling down sugarcane juice. It is closer to molasses than to bee honey, with a rich, slightly smoky sweetness, and it is a staple of Madeiran baking and drinks.
Is mel de cana the same as honey?
No. Despite the name it contains no bee honey; it comes from sugarcane. Madeira also has genuine bee honey, so check the label if you want one or the other.
What is mel de cana used for in Madeira?
It is the key sweetener in bolo de mel (Madeira honey cake), is drizzled over fried treats such as malasadas, and is used in some versions of poncha and other local desserts.
Can I bring mel de cana home?
Yes — sealed bottles are a popular souvenir. Pack them in your hold luggage if you fly with hand-baggage liquid limits, and wrap them well.