Walk into any wine lodge in Funchal and you will be asked one question first: dry or sweet? Madeira comes in four traditional styles, named after four grapes, and once you know which is which, the labels stop being a puzzle.
What are the four main styles of Madeira wine?
The four traditional styles are Sercial (driest), Verdelho (medium dry), Boal (medium sweet) and Malvasia, known in English as Malmsey (sweetest). They are named after the noble grape varieties of the island, and the sweetness comes from when the fermentation is stopped: the earlier it is halted with grape spirit, the more natural sugar stays in the wine.
How dry is Sercial, and when should you drink it?
Sercial is the driest Madeira, pale in colour with sharp acidity and a nutty, citrus edge. Serve it lightly chilled before dinner, with almonds, olives or a clear soup. It is the style that surprises people who think Madeira is always syrupy.
What does Verdelho taste like?
Verdelho is medium dry: a little rounder than Sercial, with smoky, citrus-peel and dried-fruit notes and the same lively acidity. It is the most versatile glass at the table, good with soft cheeses, cured ham, mushrooms and the island's grilled fish.
Is Boal sweeter than Verdelho?
Yes. Boal (Bual elsewhere) is medium sweet, darker and richer, with caramel, coffee and raisin flavours balanced by acidity so it never feels heavy. Try it with aged cheese, walnuts or a slice of bolo de mel.
Why is Malmsey the sweetest Madeira?
Malvasia (Malmsey) is fermented the least before fortification, so it keeps the most sugar. The result is deep brown, full of toffee, orange peel and spice, with acidity that stops it cloying. It suits chocolate, dark cake and blue cheese, or simply a small glass after dinner.
What do the age labels on Madeira mean?
Age statements of 3, 5, 10 and 15 years describe the average character of a blend rather than the exact age of every drop. Beyond those come two special categories: Colheita, a single harvest year aged in cask for at least five years, and Frasqueira (vintage), a single year aged in cask for at least twenty. Generally, more age means more complexity and a higher price.
Why does Madeira taste different from other wines?
Madeira is deliberately heated and oxidised during production, which is why it is so hard to spoil. Cheaper wines are warmed in tanks (the estufagem process), while finer wines are aged slowly in casks under the roofs of the lodges, the canteiro method. Most everyday Madeira is made from Tinta Negra, the island's most planted grape, which is why you will often see blends labelled simply as dry, medium dry, medium sweet or sweet. Bottles are fortified, typically around 17 to 22 per cent alcohol, so a small glass goes a long way.
Where can you taste Madeira wine in Funchal?
The easiest way is to visit one of the wine lodges in the old town, where guided tastings walk you through the styles in order from dry to sweet. Allow an hour, taste the dry style first and ask to compare a 5 and a 10 year old of the same grape. If you would rather see where it all began, the Madeira Wine Festival in late summer celebrates the harvest, and our complete Madeira wine guide covers the history in more depth.
Many guests pair a lodge visit with a morning or evening on the water. Chifbay runs private Day and Sunset Trips from Marina do Funchal, with drinks and food aboard, and the whole boat is yours for up to five guests. The Sunset Trip leaves 1 h 15 before that day's sunset, so the timing changes through the year, and it passes Câmara de Lobos, where the island's poncha tradition lives.
Start dry, finish sweet, and let the acidity do the talking.
FAQ
Which Madeira wine is the driest? Sercial, served lightly chilled as an aperitif.
Is Madeira wine always sweet? No. It runs from dry Sercial to rich, sweet Malmsey.
What does 10 Year Old mean on a bottle of Madeira? It describes the average style and character of the blend, not the exact age of every wine in it.
Does Madeira go off once opened? Rarely. Because it has already been heated and oxidised, an opened bottle keeps its character for weeks and often much longer if stored upright, cool and dark.
Can I have a tasting around a boat trip? Yes. Many guests visit a Funchal wine lodge before or after a Day Trip or Sunset Trip with Chifbay.